This journey begins with great hutzpa, a firm grasp identifying Kashmir sapphire, and great faith in a loving God.
 
Kashmir (Indian Occupied Territory) is a beautiful yet dangerous place. Last fall I visited the man I call the 'prophet' who completed building his new home (Please see Testimonies). That evening militants raided the adjacent hotel killing four people and taking their own lives (Battle of Khonna Khun).
 
This summer has been equally exciting although very few stones have surfaced. On average one 'gem' quality stone is seen every year. The stone is rarely viewed in rough but most often faceted with native (older) cutting. I will travel by vehicle and then many days on foot to remote villages searching old stones. The process before seeing stones may include several hours or maybe days of conversation and a half dozen cups of local tea. Traveling at night and or remaining overnight in many villages is dangerous.
 

The stone photographed in Figure 1 was cut last fall from old J&K auction rough. We find most fine quality stones in old antique jewelry. The more recently mined material (past 30 years) has yield small 'gem' quality pieces although 99.9% has been commercial grade. A sample of old rough is seen in Figure 2 below.

We take very high risk in buying. Let us explain. There no laboratories in India to certify stone treatments or stone origins. We pay a premium for stones of Kashmir or

Figure 1 click to enlarge
Figure 2 click to enlarge
Burmese origin and natural color without heat or artificial coloring (diffusion). We see a lot of synthetics and stones of Thailand or Sri Lanka origin in the major buying cities. These stones are offered as Kashmir or "caveat emptor". The cost of these stones typically increases as one travels closer to the Kashmir. You would think the opposite. We do not trade cattle or rice for these precious gems although I jokingly tried. The more amazing reality is how well our contacts understand the prices.
Figure 3 click to enlarge
When a 'gem' quality stone is found, we give it a confidence assessment. We decide how strongly we feel a stone is Kashmir origin and if it has been treated. (See Figures 3 & 4 taken with our microscope). If you pay a premium based on origin or no treatment and the laboratory states otherwise, the difference in price may be significant (i.e. Kashmir vs. Madagascar, No heat vs Diffusion). You must have experience with a microscope to do understand the difference or purchase stones already certified. The possibility of
Figure 4 click to enlarge
returning a stone or placing conditions on the term of sale is difficult. We will discuss in subsequent articles, the trials and triumphs having our stones certified with the world's leading laboratories (GRS, AGL, Gubelin, and AGTA). We have all made mistakes. Identifying countries of origin can be difficult even with the most sophisticated equipment.
The 5.5ct stone in Figure 1 was recut from 6.2cts. Our cutter is the finest in the world. Few people understand the art of faceting. Most cutters use a method similar to cutting cookies. "Cookie cutters" follow a pattern, diagram or reference based on the refractive index of the material. The result may or may not be a more beautiful stone with a much higher weight lose. The world's gifted cutters will use the physical and optical properties studying a stone to
Figure 5 click to enlarge
Figure 6 click to enlarge

maximize the potential beauty minimizing the weight lose by recutting or repolishing on top of the stones original facets. The length of time and quality achieved is proportional to the cost charged and worth every penny.

After cutting, the stone may be set as in Figures 5, 6 & 7. Having a ring made may take several months. The finished piece is mailed to the laboratory taking 2-4 weeks longer. The result is an exquisitely rare finished product with certification documenting your purchase.

Few people specialize in such rare stones. It takes many years to differentiate between the more classic and contemporary gems. The difference can be many thousands of dollars per carat. We encourage you to research and consider a fine sapphire both as an item of adornment and possible investment. Let us help you procure that fine stone. Please write us with further questions. KB

Figure 7 click to enlarge